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Spring time will be upon us and with each new planting of tender young annuals, perennials and vegetables, snail and slug control will become increasingly important as the plants try to establish. The following are excerpts from an article written for Grower Talk magazine by Tom Thomson from Monterey Chemical Co. in CA which provides an update on various control measures for snails and slugs available to "Coastal Gardeners."

SANITATION. Cleanliness and good maintenance are the first methods of control. Eliminate areas where they spend their daylight hours. Clean up weeds and undesirable plants. Water early in the day to eliminate moist areas where they congregate. Clean up all wood, rocks and other areas where they hide.

BIOCONTROL. In some areas, decollotate snails can be used for biological control. They live on the eggs of snails and slugs and eat rotting plant materials, but they won't eat live plants. Over a period of six months or longer, they can eliminate the population of brown garden snails and reduce the population of slugs. Release them at the rate of 1,000 per acre.

CHEMICAL CONTROL. Everyone has heard about beer, salt and other home grown snail and slug controls. These aren't practical under production conditions; however. Metaldehyde baits, first introduced in the 1930s, are the most commonly used control.

Measurol (methiocarb) is a sprayable molluscicide/insecticide that's registered in the U.S. on greenhouse and field ornamentals. It's applied as a foliar spray up to four times per season. Measurol controls snails and slugs when they feed on treated foliage. Once ingested, feeding stops. Measurol also controls aphids and mites. It's not for use on food or forage crops.

The newest bait to hit the market is Sluggo (iron phosphate). Developed in Germany, it's registered in the U.S. for use on ornamentals, greenhouse vegetables and ornamentals, citrus, fruit crops, field crops, vegetables and grasses grown for seed, turf and landscape areas. The active ingredient is incorporated into a pasta type product. Sluggo can be used up to the day of harvest on food or forage crops. One of the biggest advantages of Sluggo is that it's safe for pets and animals. It has no effect on earthworms, birds, insects or other nontarget species. Unlike metaldehyde baits, Sluggo must be ingested to be effective; it doesn't kill on contact.

March Garden Chores

1. If weeds have been a problem in your landscape beds, consider using an appropriate pre emergence herbicide. The timing is critical for good results....it needs to be in place before the weeds appear! One rule to remember: if you had weeds last year, expect a volunteer (bumper) crop in 2006.

2. Most pruning on rose bushes should be completed this month if you haven't done so already.

3. There are numerous fruit trees that will fit into most landscapes. Be sure to locate them away from active people use areas. If you are in a small setting, consider using a dwarf cultivar. Be sure to plant a pollinator if necessary. You should also note that deer are attracted to fruit trees. If you are in a "deer zone," it is recommended to erect some type of fence around each tree. Electric fences work well in orchards but are probably not practical for homeowners with a limited amount of space.

4. Begin designing a perennial border. There are 20 25 very popular herbaceous perennials that are (almost) fool proof, for all areas of N.C. Prepare the beds by deep tilling and incorporation of plenty of compost and plant later on in the spring.

5. Many landscapes would look 100% better if a 3Ó 4" layer of organic mulch was applied around the shrubs. Then take a square blade shovel and put a professional edge on the bed. Be sure to edge at least 18 - 24" out from the outer edge (drip zone) of the shrubs.

6. Think about adding some garden sculpture to the landscape. Any number of birdbaths, gazing globes, wildlife or human figurines and statues can be found in garden centers and antique shops. If you don't believe this is the latest "style," just thumb through a few gardening magazines.

7. Although a severe case of spring fever makes a gardener do strange things, one temptation to resist is to work in the soil if it's wet. Think twice before you work in wet soil. Compaction problems are unforgiving.

SUCCESS in the GARDEN for March!

Survival techniques for certain plants provide that they be dormant during harsh weather and grow and thrive during good weather. Problems arise when the weather becomes similar to springtime conditions and the plants respond by initiating new shoots, buds, leaves, flowers, etc.

Even in the winter months it is refreshing to see signs that spring is just around the corner with the early indicator plants such as the yellow flowering forsythia, the purplish pink saucer magnolia, the multicolored hyacinths, daffodils and crocus. These early blooming plants help to bring new life into our late winter landscapes and people also start thinking about spring and what they need to do for their landscapes.

What to Plant: You may continue to plant larkspur, poppies, and dianthus. In mid-March plant coreopsis, cherry laurel and southern magnolia and vegetables such as: broccoli, beets, cauliflower, and cabbage. Containerized roses can be planted anytime between March and May. This is the beginning of the next best time to plant ornamental shrubs and trees.

What to Prune: Prune deciduous spring flowering shrubs after flowers fade; quince, spirea and forsythia all flower on old growth. Do not prune shrubs that haven't bloomed yet such as azaleas and Indian hawthorns. Prune roses before bud break. Toward the end of the month, prune freeze-damaged oleanders in Coastal regions. Heavy pruning and rejuvenation pruning of summer blooming shrubs can be done now. On Rabbiteye blueberry bushes, prune to maintain 6-9 branches per plant.

What to Fertilize: The winter has been cold and warm at times. Typically it is best to fertilize most ornamental plants around April 15. You may apply bulb fertilizers according to label directions after bulbs emerge. Wait on other ornamentals until April. If you have not already fertilized pecan, do so now at your earliest convenience.

Pest Outlook: Check for tea scale on camellias and hollies; scale on euonymous and spider mites on juniper. Spray roses for black spot every 7-10 days. To control sooty mold, scale, mealybugs and spider mites, use insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Always check label recommendations.

Lawn Care: If pre-emergent herbicides were not applied in late February, make sure to make applications prior to the dogwood bloom. Irrigating during warm, dry and windy weather with low relative humidity levels will prevent turf grasses from dehydrating. Do not irrigate every day. Over watering can lead to many different problems. Mow lawn as grass begins to green-up.

Hints: Divide and transplant perennials such as chrysanthemums, primroses, irises, violets, Shasta daisies and Daylilies. Daylilies can be divided and transplanted any time of the year.




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